Teaching the Dumbbell Retrieve

Using “shaping by approximations”

Overview and archaic methods

Dumbbells sized to dog - all Competition Regulation and all homemade.

There have been several ways of teaching a dog to retrieve a dumbbell in a “formal retrieve” - as opposed to just chasing a stick in the park, a tug toy or ball and (maybe) bringing it back to be thrown again (the frenetic dog hopes). Strangely, even dogs who naturally enjoy retrieving can be quite reserved about retrieving a “competition” dumbbell as used in the dog sports. It seems that the dumbell just lacks that certain something that makes a dog want to chase it and return it. Plus, there is an amount of formality in the dumbell retrieve, including going out for the retrieve only when directed, picking it up by the cross bar, not the end piece, not mouthing it and returning to sit straight in front of the handler without dropping the dumbell and hold it until directed to hand it over to the handler. In an Obedience Competition, if your dog executes this with speed, verve and joy, then trust me, the Judge will smile and love you!

Clearly, if you are training a gun dog for RATG (Retrieving Ability Test for Gundogs) this applies to the “Game Dummy” (rather than the dumbbell, this uses a “bumper” or an imitation game bird) which the dog is learning to retrieve. RATG may also add an element of “finding” the object which has been cast into long grass or bush, the dog only being indicated the general direction. The shaping technique still applies.

The ways this retrieve has been taught in the past – none of which are likely to deliver that joyful retrieve and none of which are recommended in today’s training world - are quite archaic and definitely using aversive techniques. I list them here because you can buy dog training books which advocate these very methods as the “fastest and most effective” means of teaching the dumbbell retrieve - and you might even enlist a dog trainer (or Dog Club Instructor) who advocate one of these methods. These aversive methods include:

·        The “Forced Retrieve” – using two prong collars on the dog, one pulling forward and one pulling back, to force the dog to take and hold the dumbbell. Pressure is exerted on the leads/prong collars and the dog is shown the retrieve article (a plastic pipe or piece of dowel) and the pressure is either released or maintained until the dog takes the object in its mouth. The concept is that this will force the dog to open its mouth, the trainer places the article in the dog’s mouth. If the dog resists, push the object against the front teeth and move it up and down or otherwise pry the mouth open. Once the object is in the mouth, hold it there by forcing the lower jaw upward. Heard enough? Me too!

·        The “Ear Pinch” – just as it sounds, with the dumbbell in one hand pinch the dog’s ear hard with the other hand – as soon as it opens its mouth to yelp, shove the dumbbell in and do the “hold it” forced action on the dog’s lower jaw.

·        Finally, the “Forced Open Mouth” – again, as it sounds, pinch the sides on the dog’s jaws with either an overhand or underhand technique to force the jaws apart – then shove the dumbbell in and clamp the jaws shut with both hands (or by pushing up and back on the lower jaw with one hand).

Now, if any of those techniques sound pretty good to you, then you are on the wrong website. Go elsewhere for your training advice. Please. And maybe find a new “best friend” for your dog.

Using "shaping"

So – how do you interest a reluctant dumbbell retriever in this terrific exercise, so it gets it quickly and loves the game? Quite simply, using “shaping by approximations”, with a special little twist which is surprising. Here’s the method:

1.     Sit on the ground (or on a step or low stool) in front of your dog.

2.     Here’s the “little twist” - line up 5 good value food treats where the dog can see them - but not easily snatch them – and where you can reach them (and prevent the dog from snatching them if they do try, simply by blocking the attempt with your hand – no smacking or yelling – of course!).

3.     Place the dumbbell (or start with a length of dowel or plastic pipe, say, about 6 inches/12 centimeters long depending on the size of you pup/dog – and whether you want to go straight to the dumbell – which is the ultimate aim) on the floor in front of the dog.

4.     As soon as you place it there the dog will most likely glance at it – Mark/Bridge with a click or “Yes” and deliver one of the 5 treats (the first Reward).

5.     Now the dog is trying to figure out the magic connection between the dumbbell and the treat capture. If it looks at the dumbbell again – repeat the Bridge and Reward.

6.     If the dog does not look at the dumbbell (but just looks at you as if to say “Hey, how about another one of those treats I can see you still have sitting there?”) then point to or touch the dumbbell – again, as the dog follows the indication, Bridge and Reward.

7.     Keep this going until the 5 treats are consumed – end of session – repeat the whole scene tomorrow. Sometimes you may need to pick up the dumbbell and put it down, or flip it over to reinforce that it is part of the game of treat capture.

8.     Usually within just a few days the dog will try pawing or biting at the dumbbell in an added attempt at the 5-treat release – obviously you get more excited with the Bridge and Reward when this occurs.

9.     It is very important that you remain patient and never grab the dog and force it to take the dumbbell – that would ruin the joy the dog gets when it works it out by itself and you would be back in the archaic methods listed above.

10.  What you can start to do is hold the dumbell by one end just a fraction above the ground – repeating the Bridge & Reward for a look, a paw or a mouthing. Clearly you are targeting having the dog take the dumbell from you or picking it up off the floor. This will happen – and you will have a party with your dog when it does!

11.  Experience with dogs which had absolutely refused to retrieve a dumbell has shown this shaping technique to work within less than about 10-14 days of these 2 – 3 minute 5-treat session games – and the dog just loves the whole concept, precisely because (it seems) they worked it out all by themselves, their own choice, with no forcing and no aversive pinching, prong collars or shoving something in their mouth. Their new experience with the dumbbell is entirely positive.

12.  There is an example you can view of my Newfoundland, who just would not even pick up a dumbbell initially, learning through this technique (and it took exactly 10 days) and then rejoicing so vibrantly in the retrieve that when extended to a dual directed retrieve (part of her water rescue training) she attempted to pick up the two separately placed dumbbells at one go (see YouTube video of this at https://youtu.be/AticPtFbe_A?si=3p-f1gDU0e196zmA ; at 5:44 mins). Just see the joy and enthusiasm at the dual retrieve – from a dog which had no interest whatsoever in the dumbbell (it used to be – “It’s your dumbbell – it doesn’t even squeak – you retrieve it – nothing in it for me!”).

Some challenges to overcome

1.     Obviously, once the dog has worked out that picking up the dumbbell is a great game, then you will want to progressively teach it to fetch it and bring it to you. This step is pretty easy – instead of just putting the dumbbell on the floor in front of the dog, now you flip it a half meter (a couple of feet) away and the dog gets one of the 5 magic treats when it comes back to you with the dumbbell in its mouth. Gradually extend the distance – go slowly – you are looking for successes, not failures because you tossed it too far.

2.     The next addition is that when it brings you the dumbbell it holds it until you take it – and it does that sitting in front of you. Just patiently add these steps one at a time.

3.     Dogs will commonly pick up the dumbbell by its end instead of the middle of the cross-bar (this is a no-no in Obedience competitions, but not such a big deal if you are just doing this all as a fun trick). To work around this issue, try different dumbbells – some have enlarged and heavy ends so that it is uncomfortable due to the imbalance of weight if the dog tries to pick it up from one end – the dog soon figures out it is just easiest to pick it up in the middle (and that makes the handler happy as well). You can make a dumbbell with “pyramid shaped” ends (see photo above) which are difficult for the dog to grab, so they grab the X-bar. Even so, work on overcoming this challenge by only rewarding a good pick-up and hold as the training progresses – if the dumbbell comes back held by the end, simply take it as per normal and reset the exercise with no reward (but no punishment of any kind, as the object of retrieval at least did occur).

4.     Avoid just playing with the dumbbell – a bad mistake would be to play tug or “keepings-off” with the dog and the dumbbell as the object. Don’t leave the dumbbell lying about with “dog toys” – put it away between training sessions. Reserve the dumbbell for the “formal” retrieve work so it always has a special association.

Yes - someone might tell you that you don't need the 5 treats in sight because you can just reward the dog for each success - and the dog knows you have treats in your pocket or pouch. And yes - that does seem to make sense. However - trust me - there is something magical about the dog making a rapid connection between the visible stash of 5 treats and looking at/touching the dumbbell - it is rather like a food puzzle toy - "every time I look at or paw the dumbell a treat jumps out of the row into my mouth!"

Happy shaping!